Bright and sunny, jacket weather.
We found a lovely grocery around the corner from our Dublin hotel, and bought yoghurt and croissants for breakfast, and wraps and apples for lunch on the train. Today we journey south and west to County Kerry and Tralee, where our hike will begin. We managed to purchase tram tickets out of a machine after only a few tries, and zoomed across town in a very futuristic-looking tram called the LUAS over to the Heuston train station.
Luckily we got there early, as we found out at the next machine that the one-way tickets to Tralee were going to cost 68 euro instead of the 10 we were expecting. A trip over to the Information Desk revealed that tickets purchased online are priced very differently than tickets purchased at the station. There is an internet terminal in the station that gives you 10 minutes of access for 1 euro, but we didn’t have the faintest idea what website to access to buy these tickets. After another trip over to the Info desk, the nice lady took pity on us and got online and purchased the tickets for us.
They were very impressive looking works of art, with reserved car and seat numbers. Once we boarded the (immaculate) train, we found our names displayed via LCD over our respective seats – pretty cool. A steward came down the aisle periodically offering tea and snacks, and there was a concession car that offered fresh fruit and sandwiches. Did I mention the toilet? Another technological wonder, with sliding doors and every amenity – very impressive!
We changed trains at Mallow and saw many young backpackers on the next train. Were they all on their way to Tralee? Nope – they all got off at Killarney, for the longer, more strenuous Ring of Kerry hike. We were the only hikers going to Tralee today. We decided to stay at Finnegan’s Hostel, after two nights at our posh hotel. What’s the difference between a hotel and hostel? No soap, and no towels.
We did get a nice double room with a big window overlooking Tralee Park, across from Ashe Memorial Hall. Thomas Ashe is honored in many towns around here for being the first hunger striker to die in 1917 during the struggle for Irish independence. This hostel had all the rooms named after famous Irish writers; ours was called Roddy Doyle, and down the hall were Maeve Binchy and WB Yeats…
We settled in, then walked around the town, and through Tralee Park. Here is the statue of the Rose of Tralee, which is an annual beauty pageant open to any young lass around the world as long as she is of Irish heritage. The Tralee Festival takes place in August. True to its calling, the park was full of blooming roses, as well as many other flowers.
We found a grocery where we could pick up tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch (only tea and toast were provided at the hostel) and came across the Red Chilli Indian restaurant. Imagine our surprise to find the restaurant managed by a young German girl who had learned about all things Indian during a one month meditation retreat to study under Sai Baba (one of Jim’s favorite gurus). The food was excellent!
We walked until we found the start of the Dingle Way, which is shown on the map below. The hike covers 112 miles around the Dingle Peninsula, starting and ending here in Tralee. The route is marked with yellow icons of a hiking man, and goes along public roads, farmer's fields, mountains and beaches. Over the next nine days we'll average 12 miles of walking per day, ending each day's walk in a town which should have a place for us to sleep and the ability to get an evening meal. (We have not reserved rooms ahead). We will be carrying our packs (mine weighs about 25 pounds, Jim's is heavier as he is carrying extra food, fuel and an alcohol stove) and we each have one walking pole. We are hoping for sun, but prepared for both cold and rain. We can't wait to get started!
